The Retro Period (1935-1949) marked the emergence of American jewelry as World War II halted luxury production in Europe. Influenced by Hollywood, Retro jewelry pieces were chunky and geometric. Huge gemstones were mounted in rose, green, or yellow gold. Many gold brooches available today can be traced to this period.

Semi-precious gemstones and synthetic rubies and sapphires were popular in the face of wartime luxury taxes and a scarcity of precious stones. New trade routes opened up South America as a source of large, semi-precious stones. As such Retro jewelry often features colored gemstones like citrine and aquamarine in rectangular cuts and massive proportions.

Diamond engagement rings were affected by the war economy. Smaller diamonds were set in illusion settings and gave the diamonds a much larger appearance.